I needed a clutch at some point anyway so I started thinking about how I could resolve both problems at once, removing as much load off the engine on startup and being able to clutch the engine.
My plan is to put a small disk on the bottom of the shaft, then create a method of being able to push the pulley onto it; a dry friction clutch, but with a few changes. The clutch control will be a nut that I turn remotely (Likely by another pulley). The reason for this is it means I will be able to apply more force to the connecting plates via the bolt, and possibly later I may be able to automate it (ie, mechanical clutch)
Also it seems like it will be the easiest to build.

This is what I imagine it would assemble like (click for big)

More detail on the bottom of the pulley:

The pulley will turn freely inside the bolt, I may later replace the bolt and bearings with a real bearing perhaps out of a skateboard or something. The bolt pushes the pulley up using the two lower fixed nuts, turning the bolt inside them will push itself up up.

Update 16 July 2010
I started working on the pulley/clutch shaft and bearing. I spent most of the time trying to hammer, screw, grind some washers to the right shape. the most successfull was one that I ground down with an angle grinder except for the middle, then bashed the sides up a little bit. I found a aluminium ring which I think came from a hard drive and installed that and it seems to hold everything quite nice. Its not anywhere near perfect, not even near good, but its usable for now.

(Click for big)

The left picture shows an exploded simulation of how the bearing fits together, surprisingly this doesnt work too bad. The right image shows what it could look like assembled. Note the bit that says ‘Clutch Control’ this is just a bolt and two washers for image purposes. I need to put some thought into how I will turn the shaft, without allowing the spinning pulley to have any control over it. if I used a smaller pulley down the bottom or in the middle (as pictured), I fear it would be too easy for it to slip and the engine would dis-engage the clutch automatically. I also found I will need to modify the holes that the top bolt and bearing fit into; they are too shallow.

Update 17 July 2010
Started building the new base, and resunk the pulley so I had more bolt to play with, I am pretty happy with it. then I sunk a bolt into a wooden beam to go under the engine shaft, I shaped it with a craft knife, chiseled it out a little bit, then wacked it in with a hammer. It feels really solid so I am happy with this part. I in the 3rd pic I have placed it roughly where I expect it to sit. But I noticed I will have to be quite precise, I dont want the too shafts to be mis-aligned because it will mean the clutch plates wont sit true.

I still havent figured out how I can turn the clutch shaft without using too much bolt real estate and keeping it secure so its not able to be spun by the engine. although I am thinking about two small pulleys with some rope attached and wraped around a few times. buy pulling one rope, the pulley will spin the shaft and the height will increase, at the same time another pulley will be pulled and wrapped around the second pulley. I can then pull the second rope to do the opposite.

]]> http://pyrocam.com/modular-engine/home-made-engine-clutch/feed/ 0 http://pyrocam.com/modular-engine/wooden-pulleys-part-2-building/ http://pyrocam.com/modular-engine/wooden-pulleys-part-2-building/#comments Mon, 05 Jul 2010 01:31:22 +0000 pyrocam http://pyrocam.com/?page_id=157 As per Part 1. I now have a working drill and hole saw that runs of an old computer power supply. I can turn wood with the same drill by mounting it in a vice and bolting the wood into the chuck.

Firstly I took an old piece of MDF that was once a set of shelves, then a speaker box, and now wasting away in the garage and cut two pieces out. One was 5″ the other 4″. It took about 10/15mins to get through the MDF, I thought the drill bits were a bit crap but I think the drill itself is probably still underpowered. (it was quite a cheap unit when I bought it) Also I found it was very easy to get on an angle, possibly the density of the wood was different nearer the edges but I found it was digging in quite a fair amount on one side or the other and I ended up with not very even pieces. The first one wasn’t so bad but the second significantly skew. I will borrow a drill press to try and get a better piece, at least until I build my own later.

I put a bolt down the center shaft and tightened it up and placed the bolt into the chuck of my drill, then mounted the drill in the vice. To get foot control I tied a rope around the trigger, which travelled along my workbench to a nail then down and tied to a metal ruler/level at a height where I could push it down to pull the rope and as such, pull the trigger. I had some control over speed, but it could definately be improved.

This is how it came out, I was quite happy with this result.

I built a second but it came out quite skew, I will use a drill press to re-cut the MDF, and if its faster than the hand drill I might cut two circles, and stick them together to form a bigger pulley. something like so:

This will also give me a wider groove so I can use thicker belts.

Update 12 July 2010
I also refined my drill/lathe technique a little over the weekend. I think I will modify it further to become a slightly more permanent fixture with a bearing on the other side. because its only fixed to the drill its quite easy to push too hard and bend the drill which alters the shape of the turned wood. to start with I may just buy a 30cm peice of threaded steel, grind myself a nice 3 sided head on one side so that it fits into the drill nicely, and smooth the otherside and it can sit in some sort of fixed socket to provide a more stable shaft.

I also built the new pulley, twice as wide so it will accomodate more reasonably sized belts.

Currently my plan for the belt is to use rubber from an old push-bike inner tube

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